The first person to appear on screen in Paul Thomas Andersons new film is not Daniel Day-Lewiss character, who runs a high-end fashion business in early 1950s London and has the rather peculiar, borderline porn star name Reynolds Woodcock (apparently chosen by Day-Lewis, according to Anderson). It is instead Alma (Vicky Krieps), who is talking to someone off screen about her relationship with Reynolds. I dont recall seeing this sort of framing device in an Anderson film before, but it works for this genre: a gothic romance set largely in an opulent, confining house insulated from the rest of the world. Oh, and its about a perfectionist creative obsessive and the woman by his side, who may/may not tolerate his regimented way of life too much longer.
We return to this fireside conversation Alma is having with a doctor (Brian Gleeson), who, through the course of the story, will be attending to Mr. Woodcock for reasons I wont spoil, because Alma is the portal into the film, the outsider who enters into a rather specific worlda narrative device Anderson has used before, see Boogie Nights or The Masterthough this time the tone all-around is one of oppression. One might even be reminded of Hitchcocks Rebecca, where a womans love is put to the test by the forbidding mansion she goes to live in and its rather taciturn, stern matriarchal housekeeper. At first, Alma becomes part of Reynoldss world when he spots her while shes waitressing at a seaside restaurant, before he remakes her into a model.
While Reynolds is the films obsessive-compulsive center, its his sister, Cyril (Lesley Manville), who really runs the business. Im sure most viewers are coming to the movie for the obvious reason, to see the reteaming of the filmmaker and star of the monolithic, masterful There Will be Blood, but I doubt many expect to see Manville, an often vulnerable player in Mike Leigh films, to play such a force as Cyril. She is someone who can give a cold look seemingly without trying and offer the kind of cutting remarks that put Reynolds in his place. Indeed, the most thrilling and quite funny exchanges happen between brother and sister, as Manville does the impossible task of showing up another most-intense-ever performance by Day-Lewis. In other words, you come for Anderson and Day-Lewis but stay for Manville.
Another performer who does a wonderful job is Krieps, in her first major role after years of smaller roles (Hanna, A Most Wanted Man). Whats so impressive is how Almas initially seems so plain and ordinary, which may be by design, perhaps an ode to Joan Fontaines role in Rebecca. Another film that comes to mind is another recent auteur-driven story of creative, uh, damnation via inspiration, Darren Aronofskys mother!, which also has its share of cringe-comedic turns, all based on its characters behavior. The key difference here is that Alma is given much more agency and is not stuck in the grinding gears of a rigid allegory. Theres room for interpretation, especially near the end, regarding the uncanny relationship that develops between Reynolds and Alma. Nothing occurs the way one thinks it should.
This is not an easy film to take in, though, and this has nothing not to do with the rich cinematography (uncredited, though led by Anderson and his usual team of camera assistants) and Jonny Greenwoods score, loaded with strings that loudly, almost screamingly, emphasizes all of the emotional turmoil under the standard British reserve. It at first seems overbearing, but very quickly it became one of the most inspired scores Ive ever heard for any film. And Reynoldss townhouse, the center of his fashion empire, becomes its own presence as a claustrophobic setting.
However, the couple at the center have such a unique dynamic; Reynolds is stuck in his way of doing everything, whether its designing a dress or eating asparagus, and Alma just wants to feel noticed and, more to the point, not lose some sense of control in the relationship so that the power dynamic isnt completely skewed. The driving conflict between these two ends up becoming really twisted (though thats up to interpretation), which will divide audiences.
Frankly, Im happy about that. I left Phantom Thread feeling bewildered and shaken but knowing Id seen another unique Anderson film and that I needed toand wanted tosee it again to take in performances and set pieces or parts of the filmmaking Id missed. It pushes buttons in a way that doesnt skirt so far into pretension that it has to dig its way out, like mother!, or, with its dominant/submissive relationship, become stuck in bad writing, like a Fifty Shades retread.
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